Nerja is a beautiful, and once hidden, gem of a town nestled on the
Eastern tip of Spain’s sunny Costa del Sol. The town is a wonderful, small,
peaceful retreat. From the sunny, sandy beaches, to the bars, restaurants,
history and outdoor activities, there is enough to fulfil your needs without
having to venture out to the nearby cities of Granada and Málaga.
Recently, Tripadvisor presented
it to the wider world by announcing it as one of its’ 2018 Top Destinations on the
Rise. With a stunning 10 miles of beaches, paired with crystal clear
blue waters, it’s easy to see how this Mediterranean marvel made the cut! I
love this town and have now visited 3 times. With it popping up on the radar,
now would be a good time to impart my knowledge.
I won’t drill down on the dull facts
like parking tips, websites like Nerja Today and Explore Nerja have
already covered that in great detail. They are great local resources. I shall
instead be giving my opinion as to what is worth doing, and where is worth
eating.
First of all though, I have never
stayed in a hotel in the town, personally, I like the freedom to do as I wish
when I would like, so half board or all-inclusive fares do not interest me a
great deal. In the past we have used James Villas, and
booked a villa in the scenic hills overlooking the classical coastal town. They
frequently run offers including free airport parking and car hire, it’s a great
way to save a bit of money. The wonderful sunrises creep from behind the hills,
bathing the town and villas in a spectacular early golden glow. This is reason
enough for me to stay on the hillside above!
What to do
Cueva de Nerja (Nerja Caves) – these imposing caves, unearthed by five friends in 1959, display
impressive stalactites & stalagmites (included the largest Stalagmite
discovered.) These caves have a rich history, having been inhabited from about
25,000 BC up until the Bronze Age (600 BC.) Definitely worth a visit if all you
have seen is Wookey Hole in the UK, the largest cavity is outstanding, and in
the height of summer, a good way to keep cool!
Nerja Buggy Tours – Without a doubt, my favourite thing to do whilst in this town.
Roland, a Belgian expat, is super friendly, insightful, and pretty damn cool.
Making for an awesome tour guide. Based in Torrox, you venture out in a convoy
of brightly coloured 2 seat 4x4 buggys, exploring hills, riverbeds and trails
you would not be taking your hire car along. It’s an exhilarating, noisy, dusty
ride full of amazing views. Roland may take you through Frigiliana or other
popular villages, you will turn the heads of tourists as they stroll through
its streets. If I could get away with it I would happily purchase a buggy and
drive it around at home! I really cannot recommend doing this enough, it’s far
more comfortable than a quad bike too!
Frigiliana– This beautiful white washed village of Moorish heritage is a brilliant
way to spend a day, offering a large array of small bars and restaurants, steep
alleyways decorated with beautiful flowers and a selection of very skilled
craftspeople offering many stunning items, from delicate, intricate mosaics to
brilliant leather goods.
Rio Chillar – Running from its estuary in Nerja all the way up to the high
hills of Sierras de Tejeda, in the summer months this river flows extremely
shallow at its widest point and makes for a wonderful walk. Take some shoes you
don’t mind getting wet, and you can go as far as you like, you’re sure to enjoy
the scene, no matter how far you travel up the river. I would recommend going
at least as far as the small hydroelectric power station though. The valley
gradually gets narrower as it meanders northward, at one point your knees will
get wet, and you can reach out and touch both sides at the same time. It makes
for a relaxing couple of hours. Though if you are after something more
demanding, start in Frigiliana and take on this walk I discovered last
time out. We went ill prepared, owing to a distance
miscalculation, I was much hated, but what an accomplishment! This is a
challenging 14 mile-ish trek across different terrains. Descending down from
Frigiliana to the Rio Chillar, where it begins to climb in to the stunning
national park. Here the valley begins to narrow, some scrambling over boulders
is necessary, but the waterfalls are beautiful, and the cool water is
ridiculously refreshing! After a while you hook a left along a thin winding
track to the valley’s ridge, climbing a couple more valleys, the final descent
takes you into dry riverbed that runs past Frigiliana. Some of the best views
can be found whilst crossing these ridges!
Nerja – Grab some wonderful ice creams, find a bench on Balcón de Europa,
enjoy whilst the world goes by. Find a cute little bar, grab some drinks, sit
outside, enjoy whilst the world goes by. In Nerja there is no sense of urgency,
it has a calm pace, and one can easily find the time to breath and recover from
the rush of their hectic life back home. The beautiful white streets are laced
with shops of every variety, every one with friendly welcoming employees. You
will also find a stunning array of Berber paintings and leather works from the
Maghreb, Owning to North Africa’s proximity to the Costa del Sol. As I have
mentioned in a previous post, Ale-Hop is a
personal, quirky favourite, pay a visit! If you want to really see Nerja come
alive, visit in early October. They have their biggest fiesta of the
year, Feria de Nerja. A
fairground springs up, and the whole town appears to be awash with noise and
colour each night until the early hours. Now would be a good time to stay out
of town if you like your sleep!
Oasys Mini Hollywood - If you are looking to travel further afield, this movie set
turned theme park is a great day to be had by all. During the day there are
spectacular cowboy displays, involving stunning stunts, involving horses and
fist fights, performed in the town’s main street. Film geeks will love the
history of the site, as well as the museum, and the attached zoo is impressive.
Something I really was not expecting, with over 200 different species, split
across 3 beautiful habitats. In the high season, they also have a seriously
inviting pool and jacuzzi to cool off in. Truly a desert oasis!
Where to eat
There are many, many amazing eateries in Nerja, but here are a few of my
favourites.
The Steakhouse Burriana – A modern looking affair offering a selection of succulent, well
cooked steaks, meaty burgers and delicious deserts. Located just off Playa de
Burriana, this is a wonderful restaurant with friendly staff almost guarantees
a great night out
Churrasquería Brasileña
Amazonas – Nestled to the West of the town in Plaza Fabrica
de Cangrejos, this beauty has an amazing parade of skewered meats being served
to each table. Watching the food slowly make its way over is punishing for it
all tastes so good! The sides, rice etc, are equally good, but don’t eat too
much, you want to save space for the BBQed pineapple! I think, with respect to
all the other restaurants in Nerja, this is the one I look forward to going to
most!
Chiringuito Moreno – Sitting right on Playa de Burriana, this delectable restaurant
is built out around the centrepiece open fire kitchen from where smells waft,
tempting you in, then causing your mouth to water as you watch your dish being
lovingly made. Naturally, being on the beach, you find a wide choice of fish
dishes, but the paella is also a very good option, and a reasonable price
You may have noticed that I have excluded the easily reachable
activities and sights towards Malaga, there is so much, it all deserves a
dedicated post!
No matter what you are after, adventure, relaxation, or a bit of both,
Nerja and its surroundings offer it all in a beautifully sunny Mediterranean
package!
Additional Images
Short video of our 2016 Buggy Tour
Short video of our 2016 holiday, cut to Scooby Snacks by Fun Lovin' Criminals, because why not!?
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