Thursday 1 February 2018

Nerja Overview

Nerja is a beautiful, and once hidden, gem of a town nestled on the Eastern tip of Spain’s sunny Costa del Sol. The town is a wonderful, small, peaceful retreat. From the sunny, sandy beaches, to the bars, restaurants, history and outdoor activities, there is enough to fulfil your needs without having to venture out to the nearby cities of Granada and Málaga.
Nerja leather stalls

Recently, Tripadvisor presented it to the wider world by announcing it as one of its’ 2018 Top Destinations on the Rise. With a stunning 10 miles of beaches, paired with crystal clear blue waters, it’s easy to see how this Mediterranean marvel made the cut! I love this town and have now visited 3 times. With it popping up on the radar, now would be a good time to impart my knowledge.

I won’t drill down on the dull facts like parking tips, websites like Nerja Today and Explore Nerja have already covered that in great detail. They are great local resources. I shall instead be giving my opinion as to what is worth doing, and where is worth eating.
First of all though, I have never stayed in a hotel in the town, personally, I like the freedom to do as I wish when I would like, so half board or all-inclusive fares do not interest me a great deal. In the past we have used James Villas, and booked a villa in the scenic hills overlooking the classical coastal town. They frequently run offers including free airport parking and car hire, it’s a great way to save a bit of money. The wonderful sunrises creep from behind the hills, bathing the town and villas in a spectacular early golden glow. This is reason enough for me to stay on the hillside above!

Villa Sanchez y Rico, booked via James Villas


What to do

Cueva de Nerja (Nerja Caves) – these imposing caves, unearthed by five friends in 1959, display impressive stalactites & stalagmites (included the largest Stalagmite discovered.) These caves have a rich history, having been inhabited from about 25,000 BC up until the Bronze Age (600 BC.) Definitely worth a visit if all you have seen is Wookey Hole in the UK, the largest cavity is outstanding, and in the height of summer, a good way to keep cool!


Nerja Buggy Tours – Without a doubt, my favourite thing to do whilst in this town. Roland, a Belgian expat, is super friendly, insightful, and pretty damn cool. Making for an awesome tour guide. Based in Torrox, you venture out in a convoy of brightly coloured 2 seat 4x4 buggys, exploring hills, riverbeds and trails you would not be taking your hire car along. It’s an exhilarating, noisy, dusty ride full of amazing views. Roland may take you through Frigiliana or other popular villages, you will turn the heads of tourists as they stroll through its streets. If I could get away with it I would happily purchase a buggy and drive it around at home! I really cannot recommend doing this enough, it’s far more comfortable than a quad bike too!
View from passenger seat of a green buggy


Frigiliana– This beautiful white washed village of Moorish heritage is a brilliant way to spend a day, offering a large array of small bars and restaurants, steep alleyways decorated with beautiful flowers and a selection of very skilled craftspeople offering many stunning items, from delicate, intricate mosaics to brilliant leather goods.
Beautiful white buildings that make up Frigiliana


Rio Chillar – Running from its estuary in Nerja all the way up to the high hills of Sierras de Tejeda, in the summer months this river flows extremely shallow at its widest point and makes for a wonderful walk. Take some shoes you don’t mind getting wet, and you can go as far as you like, you’re sure to enjoy the scene, no matter how far you travel up the river. I would recommend going at least as far as the small hydroelectric power station though. The valley gradually gets narrower as it meanders northward, at one point your knees will get wet, and you can reach out and touch both sides at the same time. It makes for a relaxing couple of hours. Though if you are after something more demanding, start in Frigiliana and take on this walk I discovered last time out. We went ill prepared, owing to a distance miscalculation, I was much hated, but what an accomplishment! This is a challenging 14 mile-ish trek across different terrains. Descending down from Frigiliana to the Rio Chillar, where it begins to climb in to the stunning national park. Here the valley begins to narrow, some scrambling over boulders is necessary, but the waterfalls are beautiful, and the cool water is ridiculously refreshing! After a while you hook a left along a thin winding track to the valley’s ridge, climbing a couple more valleys, the final descent takes you into dry riverbed that runs past Frigiliana. Some of the best views can be found whilst crossing these ridges!
Selfie in the narrowest section of the Rio Chillar


Nerja – Grab some wonderful ice creams, find a bench on Balcón de Europa, enjoy whilst the world goes by. Find a cute little bar, grab some drinks, sit outside, enjoy whilst the world goes by. In Nerja there is no sense of urgency, it has a calm pace, and one can easily find the time to breath and recover from the rush of their hectic life back home. The beautiful white streets are laced with shops of every variety, every one with friendly welcoming employees. You will also find a stunning array of Berber paintings and leather works from the Maghreb, Owning to North Africa’s proximity to the Costa del Sol. As I have mentioned in a previous post, Ale-Hop is a personal, quirky favourite, pay a visit! If you want to really see Nerja come alive, visit in early October. They have their biggest fiesta of the year, Feria de Nerja. A fairground springs up, and the whole town appears to be awash with noise and colour each night until the early hours. Now would be a good time to stay out of town if you like your sleep!


Oasys Mini Hollywood - If you are looking to travel further afield, this movie set turned theme park is a great day to be had by all. During the day there are spectacular cowboy displays, involving stunning stunts, involving horses and fist fights, performed in the town’s main street. Film geeks will love the history of the site, as well as the museum, and the attached zoo is impressive. Something I really was not expecting, with over 200 different species, split across 3 beautiful habitats. In the high season, they also have a seriously inviting pool and jacuzzi to cool off in. Truly a desert oasis!

 Where to eat
There are many, many amazing eateries in Nerja, but here are a few of my favourites.
The Steakhouse Burriana – A modern looking affair offering a selection of succulent, well cooked steaks, meaty burgers and delicious deserts. Located just off Playa de Burriana, this is a wonderful restaurant with friendly staff almost guarantees a great night out
Churrasquería Brasileña Amazonas – Nestled to the West of the town in Plaza Fabrica de Cangrejos, this beauty has an amazing parade of skewered meats being served to each table. Watching the food slowly make its way over is punishing for it all tastes so good! The sides, rice etc, are equally good, but don’t eat too much, you want to save space for the BBQed pineapple! I think, with respect to all the other restaurants in Nerja, this is the one I look forward to going to most!


Chiringuito Moreno – Sitting right on Playa de Burriana, this delectable restaurant is built out around the centrepiece open fire kitchen from where smells waft, tempting you in, then causing your mouth to water as you watch your dish being lovingly made. Naturally, being on the beach, you find a wide choice of fish dishes, but the paella is also a very good option, and a reasonable price

You may have noticed that I have excluded the easily reachable activities and sights towards Malaga, there is so much, it all deserves a dedicated post!
No matter what you are after, adventure, relaxation, or a bit of both, Nerja and its surroundings offer it all in a beautifully sunny Mediterranean package!

Additional Images

View of Nerja from the Rio Chillar walk, heading back towards FrigilianaQuite a common sight on the hills around Frigiliana!Oasys puts on daily stunt shows, quite amazing to watch!









Short video of our 2016 Buggy Tour

Short video of our 2016 holiday, cut to Scooby Snacks by Fun Lovin' Criminals, because why not!?

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