I am a cis white male, full of social privilege, I shouldn’t know anything about oppression, persecution and ridicule, but I am also ginger. Our group is the last widely acceptable group to openly ridicule. It’s tragic, I never know when I’m going to next be asked if the ‘curtains match the drapes’ or be called ‘Gingernut.’
Of course, I joke, not about being ginger, I really am, and the jokes are tiresome. I mean about really knowing anything about the social oppression and abuse that religious and ethnic minorities, women, LGBT+ and the fat communities suffer on a near daily basis. I like to educate myself though and try to use my privilege where I can in the name of equality. I am a friend, a feminist and an ally, an umbrella term I guess would be an equalist.
This blog post is about Sofie Hagen, Denmark’s finest comedian. Last night (03/02/2018) Gina (my partner) and I took the opportunity to see her perform her latest stand up show ‘Dead Baby Frog’ (DBF) on her last UK tour date in Canterbury. Sofie is a feminist, she is also fat, healthy & proud. Whilst not quite as funny as her previous show ‘Shimmer Shatter,’ which can be purchased on her site, her third show is great, somewhat transcending comedy with its strong message. Sofie successfully uses this show as a platform to spread feminism and equality, DBF is in equal measures entertaining and enlightening. Her stories are honest, at one point as she spoke about her step-mom dad (watch the show,) I genuinely welled up a little as Sofie spoke about how emotionally brutal he was to her family growing up. Thankfully, he is currently getting his comeuppance in hilarious fashion.
I learned a lot during this show, not least, about how much I respect the wonderful talent that is Sofie Hagen. One thing we did not learn though, was the name of the bastard comedian she watched at Edinburgh Fringe. A few names ran through my head, Frankie Boyle? No, too obvious, Jimmy Carr? He likes to shock, surely not though, Sofie has just been appeared on Roast Battle hosted by him. Ricky Gervais? He likes to shock, but when did he last do Fringe. Lastly, I thought of that prick Jim Davidson, but no one goes to his shows anymore… I hope she reveals his name in a biography, it is one of those questions that will forever bug me!
After the show, it dawned on me she really has a point regarding oppression. She is funny as fuck, but vocally rebellious against current social norms, why do we not see more of her on TV? Never mind, the internet is breaking down barriers, where Sofie runs a wonderfully interesting podcast called Made of Human, or PodMOH. Check it out, she has spoken with many brilliant people like Josie Long, Scroobius Pip & Nish Kumar. All in all, this show is well worth the watch, whilst her next run of London shows are sold out, I am sure there will be a video release soon after... Look out for it!
Talents like Sofie Hagen, who skilfully blend comedy with tragic tales will help bring a change in society. I believe we share the same mentality, as long as we aren’t hurting or oppressing others we should be who we want to be and live how we want to live.
Are you the kind of person who loves being the first to
discover new music, and then bringing it to your circle? Well my friend, I like
you.
I run a web-series/community that will interest you,
Unfound Greats (See where I got my brand name from?) The aim of UG is to act much like a
small-scaled BBC Introducing or NME Presents, giving a platform for unsigned
and indie bands and artists of all genres to promote themselves and their
music.
Whilst not on a scheduled run, the episodes are pretty
regular, they last no more than 15 minutes, feature a short interview, followed
by a performance, preferably live, and are quite fun to make. The featured star
gets a little practise in an interview in an informal, comfortable way, and I
get to practise my art, meet potential friends, and discover some awesome
music!
The platform is open to musicians of all genres, as long as
they are dedicated to their artform. Proof of this, for example, is having an
EP produced.
I got into combining video with music thanks to a mate in a
band. Dan Brown, from local punk-rock act The Take Down, wanted a music video
to help promote them, way back in 2016. I loved their material, combining joyous
punk-rock sounds, epic guitar riffs and surprisingly deep, depressing lyrics, it
sounded like fun, and his idea was quite solid. Together, we planned and
executed it rather well, I learnt a lot, mostly that I loved doing it.
From that, I developed the idea of a web-series with a simple
enough premise and scale that one might do it alone or in a pair. The Great
Unsigned, Unsigned Greats, no, finally, Unfound Greats was created. My first
guest for the pilot/first episode was Weekend Recovery, fronted by the awesome energy
that is Lori. Inevitable flaws aside, I loved the journey, learning about and
listening to this small, seemingly insignificant 4 piece.
The Take Down and Weekend Recovery are so incredibly
significant in the story of Unfound Greats though, and in my own. Without meeting and
working with them, I would not be writing this now, I would not have starred 20
plus artists last year, and I probably would not have the happiness and
confidence I do now. Or a burgeoning band tee collection!
Highlights of our first year included The Take Down &
Weekend Recovery (Naturally) as well as a wonderful solo ukulele piece from cross-genre
punker Millie from Millie Manders & The Shut Up. Our first attempt at a
transatlantic episode starring the interestingly named Sex With Rollercoasters
and discovering the awesome voice and dance moves of H Boss. That man really
pumps you up!
In essence, Unfound Greats is a music discovery platform not
from a music student or critic, but from one who loves to listen to music,
loves to discover music, and loves to share music.
Give it a watch, you might just discover something you love!
Jump over to our Facebook page too, where you can see an array of photos,
extras, and have an input as to who I feature this year!
Last year (2017) Gina and I had the
good fortune to travel to two parts of the UK searching for adventure. This is
a recap of our second trip, to Snowdonia, North Wales.
After our trip to
Nottingham (post to come) earlier in year, the drag of daily life started
taking its’ toll. We hungered for adventure once more. Doing what every
millennial does at this point, we jumped on the internet. After some searching
we settled on North Wales, specifically a small cabin down the road from
Snowdon. Neither of us had even stepped foot onto Welsh soil, so this was
perfect!
Now, what should
have probably been a 6 hour journey along mostly dull monotonous motorway
turned into a 9 hour road-trip as we took the M4 to South Wales, stopped for
lunch, and then took the quiet (by South Eastern UK standards) winding A470
North into Snowdonia. Wales is a beautiful country, no need to hurry anywhere.
As aforementioned, we stopped for lunch, this is at the easily
located Nantyffin
Cider Mill Inn in the Brecon Beacons. The restaurant is
wonderfully presented in a traditional manner, with a mix of patterned burgundy
carpets, exposed stone walls and rustic wooden furnishings. The locally sourced
food was exquisite, really kicking off the trip!
Our cabin, Caban
Bach, booked through Hoseasons, is perfectly located between Capel
Curig and Betws-y-coed. It is a tiny one bedroom affair with luscious views
from the dining table and kitchen windows. The small kitchen is generously
equipped, and there is a table out front to enjoy the scenery in the summer
months. The cabin’s position will likely mean you shall struggle to receive
even 2G on your mobile phone, perfect for switching off. If I were an author or
artist, this would be a wonderful place to hideaway. Its’ central location
means it is not overly distant from any attractions either. Great all-rounder
then! Hoseasons have a great range of options containing loads of detail. Their
site is easy to use, and they regularly throw out offers.
Whilst in Wales we
climbed Snowdon and visited Chester Zoo; Welsh Mountain Zoo; Conwy Castle;
SeaQuarium Rhyl, Sygun Copper Mine, as well as paying visits to Barmouth &
Betws-y-Coed.
Snowdon
The highest point in Wales, and one of its’ main attractions. You can
take a train up there, or walk alongside the train tracks from Llanberis.
Where’s the adventure in that? A bit more challenging was the route
I decided on. Starting and ending at the Pen-y-Pass car park we
followed the Pyg Track to Snowdon’ssummit,
and followed Miner’s Track back to the car. Pyg starts of easy enough, before
becoming steadily more challenging the further you climb, at points scrambling
is required, and a moment’s pause to figure out the path. The spectacular views
of green fields and valleys afforded from this route is awe inspiring. Low
cloud carrying downpours, even sleet at one point, did not make following the
path any easier! The peak was as busy as one would expect, and I can forgive
you for having a sense of superiority over the train riders, whilst
simultaneously feeling shame as someone fitter than you casually runs past.
It’s a strange feeling.
Miner’s track
begins with a much steeper decline towards Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw lakes, do
not let this fool you though, once you reach the lake the path becomes a lot
flatter, flowing round the lakes, and towards the car park. The lakes have
beautifully rich blue colour to them. In reflection, I’m glad I chose to do the
route this way, getting the more challenging sections out of the way first! The
more rugged feel of my chosen summit approach & descent puts you in a
fantasy tale like Lord of the Rings.
Even if you are
only reasonably fit, Pyg and Miner’s is a seriously doable walk, one I
recommend highly. Remember to take some decent footwear and take your time. Be
prepared, even in the height of summer, the mountainous terrain means the
weather can change very rapidly.
Chester Zoo
Ok, technically back in England, but only an hour and a half drive from
Capel Curig. It is worth a visit, Chester
Zoo is one of UK’s largest and third best zoo in the world,
according to Tripadvisor.
It is an impressive park, and a very good (and long) day out, featuring over
500 species across many different habitats. Taking a boat around the islands is
a brilliant way to relax and recharge whilst seeing amazing animals. A personal
favourite here are the enchanting Pygmy Marmosets.
Welsh Mountain Zoo
Smaller and more compact than Chester zoo, Welsh
Mountain Zoo is still well worth a visit, especially as part of
a longer day around Colwyn Bay and Conwy. It is well laid out, without the need
for walking too far to get to any enclosure. Be sure to be at the sealion
enclosure for their spectacular display. The Humboldt penguins here are
particularly charming, and a joy to watch.
Conwy Castle
This impressive 13th century castleis
stunning. The high towers are breath-taking, not only because of the vista, but
the climb up as well! A ruin now, it isn’t hard for one can see the true
grandeur and imposing magnificence of the Conwy Castle in its’ glory days.
North Wales is renowned for Edward’s castles, and this is probably the best of
them.
SeaQuarium Rhyl
This small aquariumholds
a seafront location on the Welsh North coast, and would make a great addition
to a longer day out in the small seaside resort of Rhyl. The new display of
Moon Jellyfish is rather relaxing and hypnotic. Their collection of seals are
also a joy to watch, each of these characterful creatures have their own
personality. It’s a pleasure to watch them swim and play.
Sygun Copper Mine
With Wales’ rich mining history, you cannot go to there without
venturing down a mine! This copper
mine is down the road from Capel Curig and easily reached.
Above ground is a token museum, a gold panning area, as well as the starting
point for some walks. The remarkable caves have a rather chilly temperature of
9°C, so bring a jacket! As you venture through the long tunnels, you are
greeted by somewhat creepy figures who talk you through life in the caves. With
eyes firmly closed, this is pretty interesting. After climbing through the damp
tunnels you exit onto another stunning vista, looking over to Dinas Emrys.
Legend says a red dragon sleeps deep beneath!
Barmouth
Barmouthis
another seaside town, on the West coast, along Cardigan Bay. It is a historic
town, growing around the shipbuilding industry, later transforming into the
seaside resort it is today. The views everywhere are beautiful, but I found the
best of them to be from Barmouth Bridge, stretching over the expansive estuary,
the views over the town’s harbour and quay are picturesque. I’m sure many of an
artist has wet their brushes here.
Betws-y-Coed
This relatively late bloomer is a tiny village
of around 550 residents, that number swells in the summer months, and looking
at the place, one can see why. It’s a glistening gem straddling two rushing
rivers within a deep valley. It’s position and road links make it a great base
for activities. The grey roofed buildings are great to look at, and house
everything from homes to corner shops and (many) outdoor activity shops. The
restaurants here are some of the best in the area, personally, I enjoyed Hangin’
Pizzeria, built into a portion of the old railway station. They
raise funds for a good cause, are anti-palm oil, reasonably priced, offer good
local beer, and best of all, their pizzas are awesome! Watching them being made
in front of your eyes helps make them taste all that much better!
Overview
Snowdonia is a
magical, wonderful piece of the world. Life is slower, the people friendly, the
pronunciations difficult. If you are in the UK and looking for a ‘staycation’
that offers a completely different experience, Snowdonia is calling.
Nerja is a beautiful, and once hidden, gem of a town nestled on the
Eastern tip of Spain’s sunny Costa del Sol. The town is a wonderful, small,
peaceful retreat. From the sunny, sandy beaches, to the bars, restaurants,
history and outdoor activities, there is enough to fulfil your needs without
having to venture out to the nearby cities of Granada and Málaga.
Recently, Tripadvisor presented
it to the wider world by announcing it as one of its’ 2018 Top Destinations on the
Rise. With a stunning 10 miles of beaches, paired with crystal clear
blue waters, it’s easy to see how this Mediterranean marvel made the cut! I
love this town and have now visited 3 times. With it popping up on the radar,
now would be a good time to impart my knowledge.
I won’t drill down on the dull facts
like parking tips, websites like Nerja Today and Explore Nerja have
already covered that in great detail. They are great local resources. I shall
instead be giving my opinion as to what is worth doing, and where is worth
eating.
First of all though, I have never
stayed in a hotel in the town, personally, I like the freedom to do as I wish
when I would like, so half board or all-inclusive fares do not interest me a
great deal. In the past we have used James Villas, and
booked a villa in the scenic hills overlooking the classical coastal town. They
frequently run offers including free airport parking and car hire, it’s a great
way to save a bit of money. The wonderful sunrises creep from behind the hills,
bathing the town and villas in a spectacular early golden glow. This is reason
enough for me to stay on the hillside above!
What to do
Cueva de Nerja (Nerja Caves) – these imposing caves, unearthed by five friends in 1959, display
impressive stalactites & stalagmites (included the largest Stalagmite
discovered.) These caves have a rich history, having been inhabited from about
25,000 BC up until the Bronze Age (600 BC.) Definitely worth a visit if all you
have seen is Wookey Hole in the UK, the largest cavity is outstanding, and in
the height of summer, a good way to keep cool!
Nerja Buggy Tours – Without a doubt, my favourite thing to do whilst in this town.
Roland, a Belgian expat, is super friendly, insightful, and pretty damn cool.
Making for an awesome tour guide. Based in Torrox, you venture out in a convoy
of brightly coloured 2 seat 4x4 buggys, exploring hills, riverbeds and trails
you would not be taking your hire car along. It’s an exhilarating, noisy, dusty
ride full of amazing views. Roland may take you through Frigiliana or other
popular villages, you will turn the heads of tourists as they stroll through
its streets. If I could get away with it I would happily purchase a buggy and
drive it around at home! I really cannot recommend doing this enough, it’s far
more comfortable than a quad bike too!
Frigiliana– This beautiful white washed village of Moorish heritage is a brilliant
way to spend a day, offering a large array of small bars and restaurants, steep
alleyways decorated with beautiful flowers and a selection of very skilled
craftspeople offering many stunning items, from delicate, intricate mosaics to
brilliant leather goods.
Rio Chillar – Running from its estuary in Nerja all the way up to the high
hills of Sierras de Tejeda, in the summer months this river flows extremely
shallow at its widest point and makes for a wonderful walk. Take some shoes you
don’t mind getting wet, and you can go as far as you like, you’re sure to enjoy
the scene, no matter how far you travel up the river. I would recommend going
at least as far as the small hydroelectric power station though. The valley
gradually gets narrower as it meanders northward, at one point your knees will
get wet, and you can reach out and touch both sides at the same time. It makes
for a relaxing couple of hours. Though if you are after something more
demanding, start in Frigiliana and take on this walk I discovered last
time out. We went ill prepared, owing to a distance
miscalculation, I was much hated, but what an accomplishment! This is a
challenging 14 mile-ish trek across different terrains. Descending down from
Frigiliana to the Rio Chillar, where it begins to climb in to the stunning
national park. Here the valley begins to narrow, some scrambling over boulders
is necessary, but the waterfalls are beautiful, and the cool water is
ridiculously refreshing! After a while you hook a left along a thin winding
track to the valley’s ridge, climbing a couple more valleys, the final descent
takes you into dry riverbed that runs past Frigiliana. Some of the best views
can be found whilst crossing these ridges!
Nerja – Grab some wonderful ice creams, find a bench on Balcón de Europa,
enjoy whilst the world goes by. Find a cute little bar, grab some drinks, sit
outside, enjoy whilst the world goes by. In Nerja there is no sense of urgency,
it has a calm pace, and one can easily find the time to breath and recover from
the rush of their hectic life back home. The beautiful white streets are laced
with shops of every variety, every one with friendly welcoming employees. You
will also find a stunning array of Berber paintings and leather works from the
Maghreb, Owning to North Africa’s proximity to the Costa del Sol. As I have
mentioned in a previous post, Ale-Hop is a
personal, quirky favourite, pay a visit! If you want to really see Nerja come
alive, visit in early October. They have their biggest fiesta of the
year, Feria de Nerja. A
fairground springs up, and the whole town appears to be awash with noise and
colour each night until the early hours. Now would be a good time to stay out
of town if you like your sleep!
Oasys Mini Hollywood - If you are looking to travel further afield, this movie set
turned theme park is a great day to be had by all. During the day there are
spectacular cowboy displays, involving stunning stunts, involving horses and
fist fights, performed in the town’s main street. Film geeks will love the
history of the site, as well as the museum, and the attached zoo is impressive.
Something I really was not expecting, with over 200 different species, split
across 3 beautiful habitats. In the high season, they also have a seriously
inviting pool and jacuzzi to cool off in. Truly a desert oasis!
Where to eat
There are many, many amazing eateries in Nerja, but here are a few of my
favourites.
The Steakhouse Burriana – A modern looking affair offering a selection of succulent, well
cooked steaks, meaty burgers and delicious deserts. Located just off Playa de
Burriana, this is a wonderful restaurant with friendly staff almost guarantees
a great night out
Churrasquería Brasileña
Amazonas – Nestled to the West of the town in Plaza Fabrica
de Cangrejos, this beauty has an amazing parade of skewered meats being served
to each table. Watching the food slowly make its way over is punishing for it
all tastes so good! The sides, rice etc, are equally good, but don’t eat too
much, you want to save space for the BBQed pineapple! I think, with respect to
all the other restaurants in Nerja, this is the one I look forward to going to
most!
Chiringuito Moreno – Sitting right on Playa de Burriana, this delectable restaurant
is built out around the centrepiece open fire kitchen from where smells waft,
tempting you in, then causing your mouth to water as you watch your dish being
lovingly made. Naturally, being on the beach, you find a wide choice of fish
dishes, but the paella is also a very good option, and a reasonable price
You may have noticed that I have excluded the easily reachable
activities and sights towards Malaga, there is so much, it all deserves a
dedicated post!
No matter what you are after, adventure, relaxation, or a bit of both,
Nerja and its surroundings offer it all in a beautifully sunny Mediterranean
package!
Additional Images
Short video of our 2016 Buggy Tour
Short video of our 2016 holiday, cut to Scooby Snacks by Fun Lovin' Criminals, because why not!?
The winter months in the UK, on the whole, are pretty miserable. Sure, we get the odd day of beautiful low sunshine, you want to don your winter-wear and head for a crisp stroll along the coast or through the park. Let’s be honest, those days are rare, and much of the time we are left longing for warmer climes.
That’s how Gina (my fiancée) and I felt a few weeks ago. January though, is a bit of a skint month after the expense of Christmas. We wanted warm and cheap, for that you can’t do better than Spain! Thanks to an episode of C4’s Travel Man, and some clever frugal planning, we set off for 3 nights in Spain’s third largest city, Valencia.
Before I expand on our adventure, I shall explain the frugality of the trip.
We flew Ryanair out of Stansted, without hold luggage (This was before the new carry-on rules in force from 15th January 18, which I am mostly behind to be honest.) I chose the cheapest flights in the month, 10th 7am departure, and 13th 9:55pm return. I also selected priority booking, to avoid the risk of our bag going in the hold… I didn’t want to wait for it on the other end! With mid-stay car parking, the cost of flights was around £115.
The hotel was paid for via Hotels.com utilising Tesco Clubcard vouchers and their x3 value. I then found VLCdo a pretty good deal on travel and attractions. They currently offer a Winter Pack, which is a 72hr travel card, with entry to the Aquarium, Science Museum, Hemisfèric (immersive IMAX cinema,) various local historic attractions and the zoo for about £65. Saving approx. 13%. We then purchased a single metro ticket each for the first day, to get us from the airport to the city, at around £4 each.
Excluding food & drink, 3 nights / 4 days in Valencia cost a total of £188, or £94 each. Pretty cheap, now for the fun stuff!
Day 1 - Wednesday
We landed at Valencia Airport around 20 minutes ahead of schedule, whizzed through border control, collected or Valencia Tourist Cards, and found ourselves jumping off the Metro at Xàtiva station in little over 30mins, amazingly simple, amazingly fast! Our hotel, Casual Valencia Vintage, was just a short walk along Avenue del Marqués de Sotelo. The hotel is very relaxed with wonderfully helpful staff, even though we arrived three hours before the check in time, they stowed our luggage, checked us in, and gave us useful advice for getting around town.
We headed off for lunch, and it had to be Paella. We found ourselves in Restaurante Bri De Safrà, which despite its’ 1.6-star rating on Google, we found to be rather pleasant. 3 courses for €12. The salad starter was crisp and flavoursome, the chicken paella was far from the worse I have had in Spain, the fruit salad, whilst on the small side, again was fresh and full of flavour! Good, simple food, perfect for our tired persons.
Casual Valencia Vintage’s beds are amazing, the room was spacious and nicely decorated. We did not have a view to match the room though, because we chose the cheapest option. If I go back, I would definitely opt for a pricier room for the view of the street below. Still, we were hardly there to take advantage of any views, so much to see!
After siesta, we went across the road to Foster’s Hollywood, an American style restaurant, for dinner. Gina really liked the ribs on offer. The burger meat was pretty juicy and tasty too!
Day 2 - Thursday
After a little lie in, it was a long day yesterday after all, we took a slow walk along the Garden of the Turia, a beautiful multipurpose park transformed from the Rio Turia, created after severe flooding in the late 50s, to the City of Arts and Sciences. This large complex contains L’Hemisfèric, an IMAX & planetarium; Museum of Sciences; L’Umbracle, a landscaped walk with outdoor art gallery; L’Oceangràfic, the largest aquarium in Europe; Reina Sofia Palace of the Arts, an opera hall; and L’Ágora, a sports and concert plaza. As I said, a large complex, even without going inside any buildings, there are so much to see.
We started off at the furthest point, The Oceangraphic, with 42 million litres of water, 45,000 animals, and some 500 different species. There is plenty to see here across its’ 10 areas, including many animals I have never seen before. Naturally, I found these new creatures most fascinating, and spent plenty of time watching and learning. I didn’t think I liked dolphins, but after watching them train with their keepers (we missed the daily show) I certainly do. Vastly intelligent and interesting creatures. I also enjoyed the belugas, it was serenely peaceful sitting there watching them float through the water.
Next along the site was the science museum, or Museu de les Ciències Principe Felipe, to give it its’ full name. This large metal and glass piece of art is light, airy and stunning, Three floors here allow for a large selection of exhibitions. Everything from dinosaurs, space to the technological revolution is featured here, with many interactive displays. As a music lover, I found the feature mapping the brain’s response to music very interesting, take some time and really focus on the music! My only complaint here is The Legacy of Science display on the second floor seemed to lack much English translation, I managed to get the gist of what was being said by using Google Translate.
We then went for a rest in L’Hemisfèric. This large dome building is designed to look like an eye, because of this, it is known as the eye of knowledge. The name fits well, we went back to the ocean and watched Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Secret Ocean on L’Hemisfèric’s 900 metre square domed IMAX screen. This 50 minute show, whilst covering a lot of territory, was vastly educational and interesting. The translator headsets we were given were a brilliant idea. All the music and sound effects came from the main sound system, with narration in a selection of Valencian, Spanish, French or English. The headsets are designed as such so not to dampen the main sound. The slightly reclined seats are seriously comfortable, and relaxing. After a long day, one may be at risk of having a nap… Try not to snore!
Thursday evening, we went for dinner in a wonderful little Italian called Marinetta Mia. The pizzas here are absolutely to die for. Gina had the Vera (margherita,) and I had the Chiara (cheeses), which I ended up pronouncing horribly! Whilst I cannot remember the desserts we chose, they were also delicious. The two ladies working here were wonderfully friendly, helpful, and even taught me a little more Spanish. ‘La cuenta, por favor’, which is ‘the check, please.’ I had been using the international sign for that - the hand scribbling like a pen into the other hand. No idea how that asks for the check, but it works most of the time!
Day 3 – Friday
Today we went to Bioparc Valencia. Having been to its’ smaller sister site in Fuengirola in the past, we knew what to expect, natural looking habitats, minimal caging and clever use of space. Bioparc Valencia did not disappoint.
This ‘zooimersion’ experience really makes you feel as though you are getting closer to all the animals. You can tell Bioparc has the interest of the animals as its’ main priority, over spectacle and profit. Lunch was a ham and cheese ciabatta, it was cold in the centre, but edible, the view over the ‘African Savannah’ from the café made up for it though! A particular highlight for me was the aviary in the Savannah zone, with a small selection of species, including my favourite bird, the Superb Starling with their bright eyes and striking plumage.
In the evening, we were pretty tired from the days walking, so we simply went back to Foster’s Hollywood, the food is good, and the price is reasonable, best of all, it is across the road from Vintage Valencia! After, we went to a cocktail bar (again, across the road) Gin & Bar Nibble. I had to try Agua De Valencia, a cava based drink with orange juice, gin and vodka, it has a fruity kick to it, and you cannot leave Valencia without trying it! Gina, playing safe as usual, went and had Sex On The Beach! In reflection, it is a handily located bar, but I cannot really recommend it, having just one bar staff made service quite poor, and I felt a bit rushed. Almost the moment we finished, he popped up to take payment.
Day 4 – Saturday
Our last day. Today we decided to mosey around the old city, taking in the sights, and taking advantage of the Tourist Card that permits free entry into about 18 historical sites/museums across the city. Heading straight to Museu de Ciències Naturals de València (Valencian natural science museum,) just North East of the old city. This is a short walk and a hop over the Garden of the Turia. Our slower pace as we strolled few the narrow ancient streets allowed me to notice my new favourite thing. Shutter door art! In the morning, before the cafés and shops open, a lot of the owners have had artwork painted onto the shutter doors, beautifying the streets. Far more fun than a sea of shutters! Keep your eyes peeled.
Museu de Ciències Naturals is a small modern looking museum, divided into about four sections. My only minor issue with this museum is a lack of English texts on some of the displays, but it is certainly worth a visit for archeological marvels like the mighty Megateri, and to learn about Valencia’s ecosystem. As it is a small museum, you should only spend an hour here, but do walk through the colourful Jardins del Reial after.
After strolling west from the museum, we ended up at the base of Torres de serranos, a pair of 14th century towers and a gate house. It’s an imposing structure, and it is a good idea to take a breather before climbing up to the battlements. The decorative ceilings are exactly what one would expect from a grand building used to welcoming foreign kings & dignitaries. It is still used for ceremonies to this day. From the top of the towers, you get breathtaking 360° views across the old city to the south, and the modern city to the north, stretching out to the mountains in the distance. Perfect selfie or panoramic photo moment!
After meandering further through the maze of narrow streets we went for lunch at Berny’s Burger (Hey, I like burgers!). A restaurant offering amazingly succulent burgers, craft beers, and a dubious picture of Freddie Mercury sporting one of their t-shirts… Berny’s has a range of reasonably priced options, mostly named after celebrities. I opted for the Mercury, laced in beautiful bacon, and Gina had the Jackson, covered in moreish mushrooms. If you are not after Spanish food like tapas or paella, I would definitely recommend this restaurant!
We then carried our full bellies down the high walled streets towards the huge Central Market of Valencia. Completed in 1928, the beautiful domes, constructed of iron, glass & ceramic, blend wonderfully with the rest of the Valencian skyline. We only whizzed through to say we had been there, but the bustle, sights, colours and smells are incredible. If I was staying longer, I’d be picking my fresh fruit up here.
We walked lunch off a while taking in the sights, and finding more shutter art, before going to sample a couple more delicacies. For this, we took advice from our hotel’s receptionist, ending up in Horchateria Santa Catalina. I’m glad I asked! From the outside the hochateria looks small, but as you step inside, it expands into a large room. Decorated inside and out, like so many Valencian buildings, with beautifully painted tiles depicting many different scenes, it is a joy just to look at the walls. Gina had churros with a warm chocolate sauce, which is a fried-dough pastry, popular across the Iberian Peninsula, as well as Central and South America, where Spanish and Portuguese migration has carried the wonderful snack. I opted for horchata and fartons. Whilst horchata is found across Latin America as well, made from various ingredients, it’s home is Valencia. Made from tigernuts, originating from the Moorish presence in the city from the 8th to 13th century. A truly historical, tasty and refreshing beverage. Fartons, whilst not nearly as old, having been developed in the 60s, compliment the drink perfectly. They have a sweet taste, and a spongy texture, great for dunking in the horchata, their shape reaches the bottom of the glass too. Very Handy!
Overview
Valencia is a wonderful, quirky city blending history, innovation and modernism in a way I have not seen before, I mean, how many other cities divert the forces of nature and create something so universally useful from it? 72hrs is the minimum time required here for a debut visit, one day each for the Bioparc, City of Arts and Sciences, and the historical city. In a warmer month, it would probably be worth a visit to the coast too, but January’s average temperature of 17° is a little low to tempt me there! Book a hotel as close to the centre of the old city as you can, the afternoons and evenings come alive, meaning you will never be more than a 10-minute walk from somewhere bewitching to eat or be entertained. A shop Gina and I love is Ale-Hop. A Spanish chain of shops selling wacky gadgets, toys and accessories. Akin to Flying Tiger Copenhagen or Ikea, they are easily recognizable by the cow poking her head out of the door… Pay it a visit, there are plenty in Valencia! All said and done, an interesting four days exploring and sampling. The perfect winter getaway on a budget!